The Hurtigruten Reaches the Russian Border
Norwegian Coastal Steamer Reaches Kirkenes, Almost in Russia
Oct 17, 2008
At the end of a week of heading north, the Norwegian Coastal Steamer is deep into the Arctic. The ship visits small towns with interesting histories, then finally arrives at Kirkenes, on the Russian border. This is the last stop on the Northern Voyage; after this the ship will head south again.
The Route to Kirkenes
At breakfast time the ship arrives in Vadso, the administrative centre for Finnmark, this isolated northern region. It was from here that the Arctic explorers Roald Amundsen and Lincoln Ellsworth began their historic flights over the North Pole in the airship Norge, in 1926. Vadso is a fishing town, and looks very bleak, as does most of this area.
Arrival at Kirkenes
The ship arrives at Kirkenes in mid-morning. It is now heading south and Kirkenes is south of the Arctic treeline, so appears very fertile when compared with the rest of Arctic Norway. Trade with Russia, ship repairs, tourism, and service industries form the basis of commerce in this thriving town.
It is possible to take a tour of the town and learn of its recent history. During the Second World War the Nazis invaded Kirkenes, but all the inhabitants of the town hid in some extensive cave systems above the town. The wooden buildings of Kirkenes were burnt, but the people were never found. They remained there for a couple of years, with several babies being born in the caves. It is a fascinating story, and a tribute to the Norwegian people’s resourcefulness.
The Trip to the Russian Border
The coach trip to the Russian border is a must…but only because one can. Actually the border is a bleak and windswept place, with very little to see. There are one or two small shops selling Russian souvenirs such as the well known nesting wooden dolls, but not much else. This truly feels like the end of the world!
The Ship Sails South
At Kirkenes, those passengers who were only on the ship for the week-long Northern voyage disembark. In early afternoon, the ship leaves and retraces its steps, now heading south to return to Bergen. Fortunately for the tourists, those towns and villages which were visited at night on the Northern Voyage, will be stopped at during the day when going south. So there will be plenty more to see.
In fact, after Kirkenes there is another week of some dramatic and fascinating sights, on the trip justifiably called The World’s most Beautiful Voyage.
Other Articles in the ‘Hurtigruten’ Series
 |
